This 'n that

After all the fun of the Motorcycle Diaries, I wanted to also “yammer” on about things in general. And as I am now nursing a cold and a cough, also have the time.  I never used to suffer so much from colds and sneezes but here in Guatemala you can experience such a range of different climates in the same day that it is impossible not to sometimes be affected by the extreme changes.   I have the same reaction with air-conditioning moving from cold dry air to hot wet air.  For instance in Santiago Zamora which is just 10 kms from Antigua you go from the micro climate of Antigua; warm and sunny around 23°C to a wetter, colder climate with the surrounding hills nearly always covered in clouds, so it is wet and claggy (like a miserable November day in UK) – and then I return to blazing sunshine all within the space of a few hours.

On the road to Coban you go through the ”Biotropical Corridor” which is an area of forest that is almost always shrouded in clouds and also one of the few remaining areas where the almost extinct (in Guatemala) Quetzal bird is said to still live.  Coban seems to be almost always having chipi-chipi (drizzle).

From Coban to Chahal you go through the hills and suddenly you are in a climate that is hot and sticky at around 34-36°C.  It is this vast range of different environments that leads to the bio-diversity that makes Guatemala so attractive and beautiful. And of course this diversity extends to food, drink and local customs.

Out with the old ..

On with the new (ish)

Pensioned off my first pair of walking shoes – the soaking last Sunday really did for them and the smell …….  I had probably worn then every day for the last 8 months ……   I hasten to add there was no smell prior to the soaking!   But out with the old an on with the new – well the nearly new- got a great bargain in the market almost new pair of Nike trainers for a very reasonable Q.80.  This guy sells shoes probably left behind or lost by tourists,  very happy with the shoes for £7.20p  They will do me until I pick up my next end of season bargain in MJ Max prior to Peru. For India I need good strong sandals!  

I also need to revise my ideas re baggage. The backpack I bought turned out to be “cheap and nasty”  with the all important buckles made of plastic that simply broke under the slightest strain.   And I still have too much stuff!  I am slowly realising that there is a minimum amount of clothing that is necessary at that also this minimum is replaceable locally.  Otherwise I am simply carting clothes round the planet for no good reason!   I am thinking to buy a big bag that has straps for the occasional times when I need to carry it a short distance.    I think it will be a year or two yet before I simply take to the open road.  This life of moving from project to project suits as I have a purpose and things are relatively organised.  And it will only be after my more “extreme” experiences I have arranged in Ecuador that I will be in a position to know if I want to be truly nomadic (always wandering i.e. backpacking )rather than Knowmadic (long stays and project work).    But along with the bag I am out for a nice pair of shoes and a lovely shiny pair of walking poles!

Nice poles!  :-

Bought my return ticket today Birmingham - Cochin (Kerala) for a very reasonable £620 with Emirates.  Just need to get the internal flights from Cochin to Kolkata and I am all sorted, there is an Indian Easy Jet “Indigo” which does the round trip for just a little more than the train.

Today I have been making, estafado, beef stew, my version is a bit heavy on the spices, the sauce is a lovely reddish brown and has a nice smack of chilli.  Currently it I sin the fridge, it will taste good for Sunday lunch tomorrow.  Always amazed at the fact that a days rest for a stew improves the flavour no end.

Also been trying some different fruits lately, the Jungle/Forest Marshmallow  and a type of Custard apple that tastes just like crème caramel, the flesh even has the same smooth consistency. Yummy!  Actually it is called Chico Zapote here in Guatemala and is part of an extensive Zapote family of fruits. 

I quote …..

“The flavour of Chico Zapote is exceptionally sweet and very tasty, with what can be described as a malty flavour. The unripe fruit is hard to the touch and contains high amounts of saponin, which has astringent properties similar to tannin, drying out the mouth.

The Chico Zapote is a large ellipsoid berry, 4-8 cm in diameter, very much resembling a smooth-skinned potato and containing 2-5 seeds. Inside, its flesh ranges from a pale yellow to an earthy brown colour with a grainy texture akin to that of a well-ripened pear. The seeds are black and resemble beans, with a hook at one end that can catch in the throat if swallowed.”

Given that the seed is the size of large stone swallowing one would be a tough ask!

The Forest Marshmallow, is a tough seed pod containing from 4 -16 seeds which are covered in a white fur, can’t say the fur (which is the bit you eat) tastes of much, hint of vanilla maybe.  But they are different  and I am sure a ready source of some vitamin or other.  

The Maya are very respectful of fruit and nut trees (no, that’s not a Cadbury tree) and when clearing forest will always leave these trees so one often sees a field of Maize with a few odd trees dotted around, all will be food bearing trees.

Breaky!

Still maintaining my “Chapin” eating habits,  Beans, rice, cheese, eggs, bread for breakfast (I forgo the cream on the beans), a hearty lunch, and just a soup or coffee and biscuits in the evening.   The biscuits are shaped like leaves and surprise, surprise are called Hojitas (leaves). They are a perfect dunking biscuit, very dry and absorb a good quantity of coffee without breaking or disintegrating into you mug, the Guatemalan equivalent to Rich Tea!

Ojitas

Actually, between fruits and vegetables there exists a whole plethora of comestibles which have yet to grace even the refined selections of Mr Waitrose!  

It’s Sunday morning, spent an hour last night talking to a new volunteer who arrived at the house, Stephano from Italy (though studied in Spain) ~ great practicing my Spanish ~ as I watched him dink my beer he had purloined from the fridge! (I hope  {but am not sure} it will be replaced.   Have a friend over for lunch, now that I have an oven it’s the Estafado, Roast Potatoes (papas horneo) and Broccoli …… mmmmm.

2007 eruption of volcan Fuego!

And finally, since as I reported on Facebook “Woken today (Thursday) at 00:31 feeling the effect of the 5.7 strength EARTHQUAKE centered in El Salvadore but affecting much of southern Guatemala! Odd to wake up feeling the bed moving and the ground shaking! And I was only recently saying that there hadn't been much activity of late. .......

http://www.hewsweb.org/seismic/

I followed my post with the following comment  “The earthquake whilst in bed gives a whole new meaning to "did the earth move for you?" J    and Ara, Mexican now living in Madrid with Marco and her two daughters replied “Full latin experience!! Can't complain...”   You might think that Ara, I couldn’t possible comment!  J

Hasta Luego Amigos!

PS. No room to include these last posting!

Marvin's Grandfather - a face full of character!

The rather splendid fish soup made by Marvin's chef Estaban in Las Conchas -  the Crab proved too difficult for me in the end!   The taste of the soup however was fantastic.