It’s six-thirty on Sunday morning and here I am writing my weekly blog to quote Victor Meldrew “I simply cannot believe it” this time next week and it will be Christmas Day! Yes, there are decorations in the shops, fairy lights a go-go, all imported from China, and yes, I have bought two lots of lights to put up on my covered patio probably as a permanent feature, but that will be it. As Christmas day is a Sunday life here will go as usual, the shops and offices will be open for business as usual on Monday. I am going to try to make “Pepían” as my Christmas meal, 100% Guatemalan and of Antigua! (details later).
It is great that I can get the BBC, “The world at one” though I might have to write to the Beeb informing them that for some of us it is the World at 7am!
It is easy to forget that Antigua is a privileged place, during the 36 years of the Civil War (1960 – 1996) the status of Antigua as the centre for tourism meant it escaped pretty much unscathed from the brutal onslaughts elsewhere. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guatemalan_Civil_War) Today, the rich live here or close by and it is remarkable the number of helicopters that leave in the morning and return in the evening taking CEOs to their offices in Guatemala City. So the city is rich people, retired people and tourists, serviced by hotels, restaurants, art galleries, cafes and cultural activities. It is only when you go to the “Mercado” that it really hits you that Antigua is also the capital of a mainly poor and rural state, mingling with the mainly Mayan local people as they buy/sell and bargain for vegetables, fruits, spices, household items, clothes and white goods.
The people are paid every two weeks around the 15th and 30th or each month and in December on the 15th everybody gets a bonus of double pay! The money is paid into the banks and it seems the entire population then queues to remove every last Quetzal from the bank. The banks stay open until 9pm on the pay day Fridays and open at 7am on the Saturday. As a consequence it is also a bonanza time for “Los Ladrones” robbers and pick pockets! Antigua is a magnet in any case, and I take the precaution of never carrying my bank cards, cash is distributed between about five pockets and my wallet virtually empty!
Disafordunadamente, sadly and stupidly(?) I was taking pictures in the Mercado for the blog on Thursday and arrived home minus my camera! I wanted to show just how crowded it was, you could hardly move…… I only hope somebody else is enjoying my pictures! So, like my wallet my pocket was also empty!
On to happier matters.......
Tuesday was the Feast of the Virgin of Guadelupe (Mexico) however, it is very much celebrated by some people here and there was a festival at the Merced Church. Families create colourful children focused “shrines” – (photo booths) and the charge 10Q. for you to pose in front of their Shrine. Children dress up in traditional costumes but as adults – the boys complete with painted on moustaches! The day ends with a procession of the children around the town. In Mexico this day marks the start of Christmas Festivities …. It is “odd” to be in such a religiously focused society with all the feast days celebrated with gusto, fireworks and a procession of two complete with marching bands! I need to explore what the Mayan communities do at this time.
Meanwhile back on “Volcan Española” – this weeks little surprise include the fact that you can express a doubt about something that happened in the past with a single form of word ending! For example; “ …..regresaría ……?” implies that “I wondered when somebody returned.”
Fortunately, we have reached a plateau and the next two or three weeks will be spent bedding in all I have studied so far and only in the new year will I tackle the all important “Subjunctive”, “commands” and other little treats!
I am taking a weeks break from lessons between Christmas and the New Year in order to do my own revision and hopefully travel up to Lake Atitlan.
I expect the garden will be the focus of my attention for the next two or three weeks I am busily splitting plants in the “tropical garden” and also clearing the area for the vegetable garden it is great fun even if I do in the process provide a free lunch for a myriad of insects!Ok, I have not actually seen one of these in my garden but they are so amazing! The Guatemalan Harlequin Beetle! Instead I have ants the size of small mice carting leaves around the garden in procession!
An interesting tradition.....
Finally, a nice little tradition here “Guatemalan Worry Dolls” these little dolls are told one’s worries at night and then placed under the pillow, they worry whilst you sleep! These dolls are now increasingly used by psychologists working with children to resolves family problems. More details here (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worry_doll)
This week also marks the end of the CasaSito year the newsletter can be read here:
This week I have to research Pepían and a couple of other traditional recipes for Christmastide in Guatemala.
I really do hope the weather is not too bad as you do battle with the shops, the crowds and the sheer hell of the pre-Christmas rush! Salud!
Hasta La Navidad, amigos!
Hasta La Navidad, amigos!
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