Normal service is now resumed! Be warned – this is a BUMPER edition! (Click Pics to enlarge!)
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| British Classic Car Club of Guatemala |
“Another G and T my dear?”
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| The Ambassador is the "gal" in the middle! |
Well what a month despite the distractions of my previous blog topic. March has been a very eventful month! It was all Rugby, Fish and Chips, Mini Coopers and Jaguars at the British Day organised by the Embassy in the grounds of a local hotel. It was terribly “English” the weather was changeable, the PA system intermittent and the organisation all rather ad hoc. Although I must say the Fish and Chips were first class! Less impressed with the young and enthusiastic Ambassador who, when she was not playing 7 a-side football spent rather too long chatting to her friends and rather too little time pressing the flesh! Having tried four or five times to speak to her, Jossefet and I gave up as did many others – not a good impression especially when it was obvious that people were waiting to say hello! Or maybe I am just feeling the difference or just being a “person” and nota “suit!” Anyway it was a fun couple of hours- but I avoided many of the ex-pats like the plague, is there a kit that you can buy or a course you need to go so that you become an archetypal stereotypical ex-pat? All ”jolly hockey sticks” and “don’t you know”. The Guatemalan idea of rugby was interesting to watch though – not quite up to the Six Nations standard.
Los Niños 10th Anniversary
Los Niños is a Dutch organisation run by the indefatigable Anna-Marie who support many organisations for children in Guatemala, including the children of the El Plan Infinito Project in Santiago Zamora (SZ). On March 9ththey held a grand party for all “their” children some 500 plus children attended for a day of sports, activities and general fun.
Some 45 children from El Plan Infinito took part with 30 of them participating in our presentation of the Mayan story of the “two hero twins” for which they had made the masks. I am very happy to say that our presentation took everybody by storm, it was different and it showed the children from SZ in a new light. All the hard work putin by Jossefet and I had really paid off. The children felt proud of themselves and were completely overwhelmed by the positive response they received. For me it was a steep learning curve looking after 45 very energetic and highly charged children aged 5 – 10 ism how can I put it, challenging! Especially given the “slight” language disadvantage – it is ages since I have walked round with youngsters asking to hold my hand and show them where the toilet is! And the blisters from the tug o’ war lasted for the best part of a week.
Lent is in Full Swing
It is processions a go-go, every Sunday and on different days of the week in the evening, it’s a real fiesta, people selling balloons, ice creams, all types of typical food, rosary beads, dvd’s of last years processions and much else besides. The whole process supposedly designed to be an opportunity to show your true piety and to humbly do penance for your sins ~ how it all sits with the idea of NOT parading your piety in public I just don’t know. All participants pay handsomely for the chance to participate done their purple outfit and wash away their sins hefting these enormous statues round the city! It is designed to show all men are equal in the sight of God, except for the fact that those with fatter wallets can show their piety buy buying the choicest positions or parts of the route, where the crowds are thickest or in front of the cathedral – here piety is honoured by paying up to 10 or 20 times the usual fee!
For an old cynic like me it is just too much of an opportunity. I love the way many of the guys are solemnly marching along cross in one hand and stuffing a “Big Mac” into their gobs with the other! Or stopping to pose for photographs, talk to friends or swig coca cola! (A main sponsor along with “Pollo Campero” fried chicken) As mentioned in an earlier blog the processions are in different parts - first, the men (The Cucuruchos) carrying the main “tableaux” with accompanying bands, roman soldiers, clouds and clouds and CLOUDS of incense then after a respectful distance the woman (the dolorosas) carrying a “tableaux” connected to the life of Mary and finally, and I have to say, the best organised and slickest part of the whole thing the “Tren de Aseo” the corporation dust-carts clearing up the mess lest behind – you have no idea how much mess being “pios” can cause! Within a minute of the procession passing the road has returned to normal and there is not a shred of evidence to show it was every there!
At home
Had a bit of a splurge on plants for the garden and am well pleased with the result, now have a fledgling rose garden and a “feature” including old wheelbarrow and a pile of rotting logs tastefully set out with some terracotta tiles as a backdrop for some pretty flowering plants. Also have some of the loveliest fuchsias adorning the terrace.
Been trying out some new food, Jossefet is proving to be an excellent chef! One a week we try to have a “barbeque” type meal outside enjoying the weather – which, has still NOT settled down to the long hot days of summer, so the weather is different on any two days. These lastfew weeks have seen us cooking, “Caldo de Pollo” a chicken soup/stew, with chicken, chicken livers, potatoes and other assorted vegetables served with rice (which you put into the caldo) and the absolute staple of Guatemalan cooking, Rice, Black Beans (Frijoles Negro ~ also called Black Chicken) and char-grilled chicken. Although the black beans look pretty dull the taste is fantastic, and served with cream cheese accompanied by bread and rice are a meal in themselves.
International Jazz Festival
Antigua hosted it’s 12th annual Jazz Festival, Jossefetand I went to the concert by an American Modern Jazz Quartet , the setting was superb sadly, modern Jazz just doesn’t do it for me, kept thinking of a phrase my gran used to say of any music she did not like “sound likes the tune the cat died on!” (A reference to cat-gut being used for violin strings – though I am sure she did not know that!)
The Art Factory
Although this little house is tiny we have turned it into a laboratory! Jossefet and I trying out many different ideas for art projects for the children. I am “completely” sold on art as way to enable these children to develop and to loose themselves in creative activity. Amongst the 40 or so children are 5 or 6 with REAL talent, and for them as for all the children, these art projects give them an opportunity to create something and to be proud of their efforts.
So we have made, kites, geometric models, mosaics, mazes, and a whole heap of other things just to see what would work and what doesn’t! The latest project is to make picture frames. The frame will house a picture of each child’s efforts in the mask making project and will be for them to take home.
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| Mr. Airfix at Home! |
Jossefet and I have spent the last three days getting everything assembled into “kits” so that each child has all the right stuff for their frame. This has entailed drawing, cutting, and sticking some several hundred individual pieces into manageable parts for youngsters. I felt like Mr. Airfix!
“Cumbre del Presidentes”
Last Saturday saw the annual meeting of all the Presidents of Central America being held in Antigua! Jossefet and I managed to wheedle our way to the front of the crowds,just behind the 1000 or so highly choreographed school children, who were being schooled in waving cheering and clapping awaiting the arrival of the Presidentes, they had been given flags from all the countries participating. It king of reminded me of the rubric reportedly seen in the order of service for the Enthronement of a previous the Archbishop of Canterbury” ~
if there is to be a spontaneous outburst of applause, let it happen now. As it turned out there were only three presidents present as three others had withdrawn at the very last minute, this was no surprise as the three missing presidents are not highly thought of, or are recognised as having been elected less than fairly! So no Nicaragua, El Salvador or Honduras which left only Panama and Costa Rica joining president Perez of Guatemala. But it was a great spectacle, I was very impressed by the genuine affection shown the Guatemala’s female Vice President and (certainly) next President, Roxana Baldetti. Jossefet and I even got our own “wave” from her as she passed us in her motorcade in the street! Ahhhh! Apparently she is the power behind the throne, is seen as genuinely interested in the people and it was her support that enabled the current president to gain office.
In Guatemala each president can only serve one four year term. There had just been the shameful scandal of the previous president divorcing his wife so that she could run for President – he had to divorce here as relative are excluded from running! The last president thought the people were stupid enough to accept the arrangement ~ how wrong he was!
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| President Perez with Vice President Roxana Baldetti |
There is a great hope that Vice President Roxana will be able to effect real change in Guatemala especially in improving the lot of women and the family, will be interesting to see if she can, she has her four years as VP and then (probably) 4 years as President to do it! But she may have to take on the might of the conservative Catholic church if she is to achieve anything.
Baby Jesus goes for a walk!
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| It really is tough work for a two year old ~ probably only 18 months! |
Whilst all this was going on in the central square – around town there was, wait for it,……… another procession, but this time it was the children, exactly the same format but with children carrying the tableaux. For what are the children penitent? Anyways, I suppose one could say it was cute, might as well start them early. I have met many men here who very proudly say they have participated in every procession since they were 6 or 7. It just seems a pity that even for the children the girls are definitely reminded that they are second class citizens and need to follow the boys. It would be a great opportunity to start mixing things up a bit and having some equality. But maybe that is too radical!
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| If you carry the Statue nicely you can have a bag of crisps! |
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| In a Cloud of Incense of Holiness! |
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| The all seeing eye of God! Now eat your greens! |
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| Who is the patron Saint of Rubbish? |
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| A very slick operation! |
Breaking News!
It looks as if Jossefet will go to Brussels next week! :-( He has a great opportunity to work with a family friend in his design business, (fabrics, interior design) in Brussels. The business is expanding rapidly and Jossefet has already proved himself in using the technology to make the different colour-ways for the designs. He will be looking after the gallery in Brussels and making trips to the Milan, Paris, London etc. It is a big opportunity for him and I want him to take it, even though it will feel odd after him being here living with me for the last two months. I hope to celebrate my birthday with him in Europe in August.
The fifth Sunday in Lent
There was a gigantic fiesta in the city last Sunday for the procession and this will be the subject of a separate blog which I will publish in the next two days! It was absolutely “loco” - crazy! Must have been 100,000 visitors in Antigua for the day!
OK. Thanks for reading! Back in a couple of days!
Hasta Luego Amigos
Tell them about the societies “hermandades” who raise incredible sums of money by selling places in the processions so people can pay for their penitence with their wallets! Especially in front of the important churches in the city. No hiding your light under a bushel here – let your penitence shine out! Oh, smile for the cameras. Does my bum look big in this cassock?
It does however seem a shame that with the advent of modern technology the penitents do seem more interested in their text messages or in taking and posing for photos rather than being, well …… penitent. Also anybody with a phone that can take a picture seems to think that it is OK to just stand in the middle of the procession and snap away. Many tourists seemed to think it was a Disney parade and seemed to be looking for just where they could buy their penitential Mickey Mouse ears!
OK, here we are in the Cathedral with another less frightening tableaux(you recall thefour horsemen of the apocolypse)- this one was on a less grand scale- disappointed that the figures didn't move - as theyso looked like puppets. 
