Monday 9 April 2012

That was the week that was! Part 1

Once upon a “Semana Santa” in Antigua Guatemala there were two Angels sitting on my shoulder both were trying to be very helpful in giving me advice and suggestions and what you are about to read is the rather confused result of their very differing opinions. 

(This is going to be more of a photo journal and if itis all a bit "same-y"  then it was!  The photos are in chronological order from the Startof Lent to EasterDay!  Click to see the bigger picture!)


I don’t know you wait 11months for a procession and then 30 come along in just a few short weeks (actually 26 in Holy Week)!  The people of Antigua must be really bad if they need to perform so many works of penitence not to mention the need to pull in the tourists and fill the hotels and restaurants!

No, no, the tradition of Processions in Guatemala is a very particular expression of the deeply felt need to touch the hearts of as many people as possible during this time of preparation and reflection.
Ash Wednesday outside the Cathedral

March 3

In Antigua there are processions every Sunday during Lent and then during Semana Santa (Holy Week) up to four processions as day!  Given that Central Antigua is no more than about 8 cuadras (blocks) by 8 and some of these processions go on for up to 15 hours it is a very creative work of art to decide on a route.


Yes a route causing the maximum confusion and chaos for any motorist crazy enough to enter the city during a procession. Roads that in any case are poorly signed one minute are one way only the next they are reversed one way and the next they are used in both directions.  Net result hundreds of frustrated motorists driving round and round in ever decreasing circles and denied the opportunity of using their horn within the city limits.  They too form an interesting procession.

It is important that precedence is given so that these ancient and historic images can fill the hearts and minds of the faithful. Many of the statues date back to the 17th and 18th centuries.

Tell them about the societies “hermandades” who raise incredible sums of money by selling places in the processions so people can pay for their penitence with their wallets! Especially in front of the important churches in the city. No hiding your light under a bushel here – let your penitence shine out!  Oh, smile for the cameras.  Does my bum look big in this cassock?


The solemn processions follow a fixed order, the men taking precedence the women following after.

Romans - Cross bearers – Thurifers  (up to 200!)  -  Stations of the Cross  -Penitents -
The Main Image (of Jesus) – Drummers – Band - Associated Saints - - at this point women enter the proceedings -  Penitents - Image of the Virgin – Drummers - Band
General Penitents - Refuse Trucks  (Tren de Aseo).   Note: no priests!


Once a procession reaches an alfombra itwalks over it and then reverses over it and then goes foward again - this is known as the "double penance" - it also insures thatthe alfombra is fully driven into the ground and completely destroyed!


It does however seem a shame that with the advent of modern technology the penitents do seem more interested in their text messages or in taking and posing for photos rather than being, well …… penitent.   Also anybody with a phone that can take a picture seems to think that it is OK to just stand in the middle of the procession and snap away.  Many tourists seemed to think it was a Disney parade and seemed to be looking for just where they could buy their penitential Mickey Mouse ears!

One assumes processing with your arm round your girlfriend whilst eating a hamburger and composing a text message is simply tradition giving way to convenience.

OK, here we are in the Cathedral with another less frightening tableaux(you recall thefour horsemen of the apocolypse)- this one was on a less grand scale- disappointed that the figures didn't move - as theyso looked  like puppets.  


 And no it is not funny to suggest alternative captions for what was happening - the man is not saying  "get out of bed woman and get breakfast we have guests!"
 Sadly the first night time procession- which was to go on all night! Got of to a bit of a wet start and as thestatues do not come with unbrellas instead of coronets- good old plastic had to surfice.  (Given that the statues are 200- 300 years old -one is slightly shocked that more protection is not afforded these Baroque treasures.)

 The "penitents"  see rain as a benediction of an added affliction to make their contrition more complete.   The food and balloon sellers just see diminished profits!  Strangly nobody was selling pac-a-macs! (Idea for next year).


 On the Monday and Tuesday of Holy Week there were two very small and local processions probably to cover the streets too small for the big statues - they were actually rather touching being more about the religion and less about the tourists!



Actually, as I sit here writing I am aware of just how exhausted I am by all this procession watching, and have been suffering from a stomach upset for a few days, so, I am going to leave you will a selection of photos taking you up to  the First of Three processions of Thursday (Maundy) and the ONLY procession topass the front of my little house!..... and will write more about the "great triidium" shortly - even my cynicism is dampened so I must be under the  weather!
 The procession left the great church of San Francisco (300 yards from my house) at 13:00 and four hours later had made its circuitous route to the Calle Del hermano Pedro and number 15!


Oh yes, and all the processions arecovered in full on TV, hours and hours and hours and hours of it!  And between them the show re-runs of great processions from previous years!   Canal 9 - Antigua TV!





And here we are in my "Calle"  - Jossefet and I were sitting on the garden wall - the added height really helped with the pictures.


 First come the Romans!
 The head dresses for the romans are made from floor brushes!  Rather clever!  The Spears are metal and very sharp!

Health and Safety  - never heard of it!
 The Romans appreciating theflowers in front of the neighbours house!
 Then the banner of the Hermandad - Society responsible for the Procession!
 And then the "penitents" nicely turned out in purple, all waiting their turn to carry the tableaux.
Did I mention the penitents?











 And here is one you can make for yourself!

Now the dilemma is - is he carrying it out of devotion - or is there an insy-whinsy bit of vanity creeping in?

Stop it ........naughty Angel!

Of course, with all the electric cables a novel method of ensuring that everything doesn'tgetshorted-outhas to be found!   The guys with these poles are VERY busy!



The guy on the front of the tableaux - i shelping the woman steer, bit like trying to stop and oil tanker!



 I hope you are getting all this!

Perhaps not quite the time for selling balls.   The "pelotas"  are hand made from rubber almost direct from the tree.

OK  --- more in a day or two - soem really amazing pictures to come ......... 

Off to bed .... feeling very tired!

Hasta Luego!

1 comment:

  1. Great pictures and puts the Malta experience into a very small occasion! Hope you are feeling better. Martin & Jean x

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