Wednesday, 28 March 2012

That was the month that was!

Normal service is now resumed!  Be warned – this is a BUMPER edition!  (Click Pics to enlarge!)


British Classic Car Club of Guatemala




“Another G and T my dear?”

The Ambassador is the "gal" in the middle!


Well what a month despite the distractions of my previous blog topic. March has been a very eventful month!  It was all Rugby, Fish and Chips, Mini Coopers and Jaguars at the British Day organised by the Embassy in the grounds of a local hotel.  It was terribly “English” the weather was changeable, the PA system intermittent and the organisation all rather ad hoc.  Although I must say the Fish and Chips were first class!  Less impressed with the young and enthusiastic Ambassador who, when she was not playing 7 a-side football spent rather too long chatting to her friends and rather too little time pressing the flesh! Having tried four or five times to speak to her, Jossefet and I gave up as did many others – not a good impression especially when it was obvious that people were waiting to say hello!  Or maybe I am just feeling the difference or just being a “person” and nota “suit!”  Anyway it was a fun couple of hours- but I avoided many of the ex-pats like the plague, is there a kit that you can buy or a course you need to go so that you become an archetypal stereotypical ex-pat?  All ”jolly hockey sticks” and “don’t you know”. The Guatemalan idea of rugby was interesting to watch though – not quite up to the Six Nations standard.

Los Niños 10th Anniversary




Los Niños is a Dutch organisation run by the indefatigable Anna-Marie who support many organisations for children in Guatemala, including the children of the El Plan Infinito Project in Santiago Zamora (SZ). On March 9ththey held a grand party for all “their” children some 500 plus children attended for a day of sports, activities and general fun.

Some 45 children from El Plan Infinito took part with 30 of them participating in our presentation of the Mayan story of the “two hero twins” for which they had made the masks. I am very happy to say that our presentation took everybody by storm, it was different and it showed the children from SZ in a new light.   All the hard work putin by Jossefet and I had really paid off. The children felt proud of themselves and were completely overwhelmed by the positive response they received. For me it was a steep learning curve looking after 45 very energetic and highly charged children aged 5 – 10 ism how can I put it, challenging!  Especially given the “slight” language disadvantage – it is ages since I have walked round with youngsters asking to hold my hand and show them where the toilet is!  And the blisters from the tug o’ war lasted for the best part of a week.

Lent is in Full Swing


It is processions a go-go, every Sunday and on different days of the week in the evening, it’s a real fiesta, people selling balloons, ice creams, all types of typical food, rosary beads, dvd’s of last years processions and much else besides.  The whole process supposedly designed to be an opportunity to show your true piety and to humbly do penance for your sins ~ how it all sits with the idea of NOT parading your piety in public I just don’t know.  All participants pay handsomely for the chance to participate done their purple outfit and wash away their sins hefting these enormous statues round the city!  It is designed to show all men are equal in the sight of God, except for the fact that those with fatter wallets can show their piety buy buying the choicest positions or parts of the route, where the crowds are thickest or in front of the cathedral – here piety is honoured by paying up to 10 or 20 times the usual fee!
For an old cynic like me it is just too much of an opportunity. I love the way many of the guys are solemnly marching along cross in one hand and stuffing a “Big Mac” into their gobs with the other! Or stopping to pose for photographs, talk to friends or swig coca cola! (A main sponsor along with “Pollo Campero” fried chicken)  As mentioned in an earlier blog the processions are in different parts -  first, the men (The Cucuruchos)  carrying the main “tableaux” with accompanying bands, roman soldiers, clouds and clouds and CLOUDS of incense then after a respectful distance the woman (the dolorosas) carrying a “tableaux” connected to the life of Mary and finally, and I have to say, the best organised and slickest part of the whole thing the “Tren de Aseo” the corporation dust-carts clearing up the mess lest behind – you have no idea how much mess being “pios” can cause!  Within a minute of the procession passing the road has returned to normal and there is not a shred of evidence to show it was every there!

At home

Had a bit of a splurge on plants for the garden and am well pleased with the result, now have a fledgling rose garden and a “feature” including old wheelbarrow and a pile of rotting logs tastefully set out with some terracotta tiles as a backdrop for some pretty flowering plants.  Also have some of the loveliest fuchsias adorning the terrace.

Been trying out some new food, Jossefet is proving to be an excellent chef! One a week we try to have a “barbeque” type meal outside enjoying the weather – which, has still NOT settled down to the long hot days of summer, so the weather is different on any two days.   These lastfew weeks have seen us cooking, “Caldo de Pollo” a chicken soup/stew, with chicken, chicken livers, potatoes and other assorted vegetables served with rice (which you put into the caldo) and the absolute staple of Guatemalan cooking,  Rice, Black Beans (Frijoles Negro ~ also called Black Chicken) and char-grilled chicken. Although the black beans look pretty dull the taste is fantastic, and served with cream cheese accompanied by bread and rice are a meal in themselves.

International Jazz Festival



Antigua hosted it’s 12th annual Jazz Festival, Jossefetand I went to the concert by an American Modern Jazz Quartet , the setting was superb sadly, modern Jazz just doesn’t do it for me, kept thinking of a phrase my gran used to say of any music she did not like  “sound likes the tune the cat died on!”  (A reference to cat-gut being used for violin strings – though I am sure she did not know that!)


The Art Factory




Although this little house is tiny we have turned it into a laboratory! Jossefet and I trying out many different ideas for art projects for the children. I am “completely” sold on art as way to enable these children to develop and to loose themselves in creative activity. Amongst the 40 or so children are 5 or 6 with REAL talent, and for them as for all the children, these art projects give them an opportunity to create something and to be proud of their efforts.

So we have made, kites, geometric models, mosaics, mazes, and a whole heap of other things just to see what would work and what doesn’t!  The latest project is to make picture frames. The frame will house a picture of each child’s efforts in the mask making project and will be for them to take home.  
Mr. Airfix at Home!

Jossefet and I have spent the last three days getting everything assembled into “kits” so that each child has all the right stuff for their frame.   This has entailed drawing, cutting, and sticking some several hundred individual pieces into manageable parts for youngsters. I felt like Mr. Airfix!

“Cumbre del Presidentes”

Last Saturday saw the annual meeting of all the Presidents of Central America being held in Antigua! Jossefet and I managed to wheedle our way to the front of the crowds,just behind the 1000 or so highly choreographed school children, who were being schooled in waving cheering and clapping  awaiting the arrival of the Presidentes, they had been given flags from all the countries participating. It king of reminded me of the rubric reportedly seen in the order of service for the Enthronement of a previous the Archbishop of Canterbury” ~ if there is to be a spontaneous outburst of applause, let it happen now. As it turned out there were only three presidents present as three others had withdrawn at the very last minute, this was no surprise as the three  missing presidents are not highly thought of, or are recognised as having been elected less than fairly!  So no Nicaragua, El Salvador or Honduras which left only Panama and Costa Rica joining president Perez of Guatemala.   But it was a great spectacle, I was very impressed by the genuine affection shown the Guatemala’s female Vice President and (certainly) next President, Roxana Baldetti. Jossefet and I even got our own “wave” from her as she passed us in her motorcade in the street!  Ahhhh!   Apparently she is the power behind the throne, is seen as genuinely interested in the people and it was her support that enabled the current president to gain office.

 In Guatemala each president can only serve one four year term. There had just been the shameful scandal of the previous president divorcing his wife so that she could run for President – he had to divorce here as relative are excluded from running!  The last president thought the people were stupid enough to accept the arrangement ~ how wrong he was!    

President Perez with Vice President Roxana Baldetti
There is a great hope that Vice President Roxana will be able to effect real change in Guatemala especially in improving the lot of women and the family, will be interesting to see if she can, she has her four years as VP and then (probably) 4 years as President to do it!  But she may have to take on the might of the conservative Catholic church if she is to achieve anything.

Baby Jesus goes for a walk!


It really is tough work for a two year old ~ probably only 18 months!
Whilst all this was going on in the central square – around town there was, wait for it,………  another procession, but this time it was the children, exactly the same format but with children carrying the tableaux.  For what are the children penitent?  Anyways, I suppose one could say it was cute, might as well start them early. I have met many men here who very proudly say they have participated in every procession since they were 6 or 7.   It just seems a pity that even for the children the girls are definitely reminded that they are second class citizens and need to follow the boys. It would be a great opportunity to start mixing things up a bit and having some equality. But maybe that is too radical!






If you carry the Statue nicely you can have a bag of crisps!

In a Cloud of Incense of Holiness!


The all seeing eye of God!  Now eat your greens!

Who is the patron Saint of Rubbish?

A very slick operation!


Breaking News!

It looks as if Jossefet will go to Brussels next week!  :-(   He has a great opportunity to work with a family friend in his design business, (fabrics, interior design) in Brussels. The business is expanding rapidly and Jossefet has already proved himself in using the technology to make the different colour-ways for the designs. He will be looking after the gallery in Brussels and making trips to the Milan, Paris, London etc.  It is a big opportunity for him and I want him to take it, even though it will feel odd after him being here living with me for the last two months.  I hope to celebrate my birthday with him in Europe in August.

The fifth Sunday in Lent

There was a gigantic fiesta in the city last Sunday for the procession and this will be the subject of a separate blog which I will publish in the next two days!  It was absolutely “loco”  - crazy!   Must have been 100,000 visitors in Antigua for the day!

OK.   Thanks for reading!  Back in a couple of days!

Hasta Luego Amigos






Monday, 26 March 2012

Is it better to travel safely than to arrive?

Well, first of all a big thank you to those of you who have written asking why there has been no blog for a few weeks.  This last four weeks has been a time of personal adjustment and realisation.  This blog is in two parts: part one -  more rambling thoughts on the subject  of “direction”, which I want to share with you and part two what’s been happening over the last few weeks!(out in a few days!)

The pics in this blog arein and around Santiago Zamora,San Antonio Aguas Calientes and aspects of the SZ project.

The performance group with our donors


So ……. If you want to skip my “navel gazing” await part two and read no more!

I am adjusting to life back in a developing country, although to be fair living in Antigua, one is hard pushed to see much sign of the poverty and difficulties that face most of the population. 

Two El Plan Infinito "angels"
I moved to Guatemala, as a conscious decision for (yet another?) life change, but I certainly had one hand metaphorically tied behind my back and I was definitely heading for harder times as I applied for jobs that I either really didn’t want or knew that I wouldn’t get being either too old or having a CV that was too reflective of my somewhat varied career! My solace during the most part of 2010/2011 had been the emotional support of close friends (thanks bro!), learning to paint and the cats!

Now, I want to be clear that I don’t regret my decision to move out of the UK, I do however, now fully realise just what an irrevocable step this has been AS I feel that there is no way I could afford to return to the UK to live, without having to a live off my “pension pot” which would last all of a year maybe two! 

So here I am. I am relatively happy….. but, I am dissatisfied.

Finding the right channels for my interests and abilities is still proving to be difficult.
Girls in Santiago Zamora
Letting go of my work experience in consulting and in enabling and helping organisation develop is very hard, particularly when faced with some pretty dysfunctional “helping” organisations.

Living in Antigua, I think will prove to be a mistake longer term. So I am looking to move out. Even moving 5 - 10 kms from Antigua takes you to towns and villages that definitely reflect the real (developing) Guatemala.  Live is tougher, but life is also simpler.  Most people are subsistence farming and hoping to build a little house on a small plot of land. Whereas, Antigua is all colonial architecture, restaurants, bars, boutiques and travel agencies (all wanting to take me to Volcan Pacaya- which is relatively inactive at the moment- so a big disappointment awaits!) They only place that reflects Guatemala is the market – which I love!  

One of the famous weavers of San Antonio!
So. . . ..  I have been feeling increasingly dissatisfied with life in Antigua as it is expensive and although stunning and amazing, should probably be the place I go too for treats (concerts, films, art, restaurants) but not the place I live, especially as I am not the ex-pat type and avoid most Gringos [foreigners, especially resident ones] like the plague.

Jossefet and I have been looking at places to rent out of town!  More space, smaller garden and a rent of around $150(US) compared to the $350(US) that I pay in Antigua for 250 sq feet and a huge garden.  With the saving I could/would buy a scooter  - brand new for $900(US)- Life in the fast lane. Or simply be a Guatemalan and take the bus!
About £600

The project in Santiago Zamora also presents its own challenges as does the running and management of it. So I have gone from being offered the opportunity to coordinate the project, to resigning from the charity, to now working for it “simply volunteering my time” two afternoons a week mainly running art projects, whilst a big line is drawn in the sand around the future direction of the project and new ideas are tried out. If things go well an offer is “hanging in the air” to coordinate the project from June (but many things would have to change in order for me to feel happy to do that!) AND actually running the arte stuff is very rewarding AND I did promise myself no more responsibility!

As one door closed another opened. I have been associated with the Cima del Mundo (CDM) – “On the top of the world” since 2006, having at various time studied some Spanish with them including an intensive month in 2008 and of course daily lessons during my first three months here now.  CDM has over the years developed a strong association with the Korean business community here in Guatemala offering Spanish lessons. Increasingly, over the last year or two Erick (the Owner) has received requests to provide English classes/lessons.  Consequently has asked me to join his team of Maestros and start teaching but more specifically to develop the offering sin English.  I will have my own classroom and the opportunity to develop and deliver courses individually and in groups of up to four students. And income will be shared on a 66% / 33% basis.  I could supplement my pension by around $US 125 a week for around 20 hours work more if I deliver courses at the weekend and take my days off during the week!   I never realised just how useful my hurriedly taken TESOL qualification would be prove to be (the cost of which was such a thoughtful gift from Martin and Jean!)

Additionally, thanks to the economic climate my pension payments have already reduced by 15%!
Will I have to start weaving?

Also Jossefet has come into my life and the last two months with him have been great, he however, with much encouragement from me, has decided to take up an offer from a close family friend of his, to go to Brussels and work as a trainee designer in his friends very successful interior design boutique, for six months.

So, during the last month I have been juggling with all these bits and pieces.

Town Hall - San Antonio Aguas Calientes
Where am I now? 

I think that starting during the next two months:

- I will move out of Antigua, and will probably try to live in the town of San Antonio Aguas Calientes, a 20 minute bus ride away, and only 3kms from Santiago Zamora.  I can rent a house, have a bit more space, giving me room to start painting again seriously to write a bit and simply to enjoy life!

- I will work 25 hours a week for CDM, and am already developing a whole range of courses.  I just hope my new found knowledge of English grammar does not affect my idiomatic writing style!

- I will develop the art projects in Santiago Zamora and adjust what I do for the project according to how things develop (especially as I may be living close by)

- I will try to save a bit of money in order to travel more in Latin America

- Continue to develop things with Jossefet ( even if long distance for a while)

- Get back to trying to be “semi-retired” and enjoying a simpler (stress free?) life!

Your views ideas and support all greatly welcome.

So, as  John Ebden (ancient radio four announcer, raconteur ) used to say “if you have been ….. thanks for listening.”

Blog 2 follows very shortly inlcuding   “British Day” with Fish and Chips! - Processions – International Jazz Festival – Los Ninos Anniversary – Food – art, Art  ART in Santiago - More Processions – The Cumbre del Presidentes de Central America in Antigua – y mucho mas- and …..  probably by the time I finish writing yet more processions!



Thursday, 1 March 2012

Lent - Antigua style! [or in Spanish “Cuaresma” ]

I feel that this special blog on Lent captures some of the conservatism of Antigua,especially its outward religiosity . . . . . .   the VIDEO is a must  (only viewable from the blog itself not via email - if you are reading this as an email then click the title of this email to go to the blog!) 





Lent or in Spanish “Cuaresma”  

My own words plus information from various sources. It is incredible to a secular European to see buildings, shops, offices decked in purple flags and banners to signify this penitential season ~ and the fact that Lent is taken very seriously here with people  participating in many acts of penance! And Antigua is the centre of the action in Guatemala!

Even the trees hace turned purple in the Central Park!

Cuaresma, or Lent, refers to the 40 days leading up to Holy Week in Guatemala. Traditionally, people give something up for Lent, but this is not a common practice in Guatemala, though fish is more commonly eaten during this time in place of meat. Instead, the Guatemalans work on repentance by signing up to carry in the processions as cucuruchos, or float carriers. 

Abandon all hope all ye who enter here!
Was the impression I got from the Lenten display in the Cathedral, as I have written elsewhere, I is SO conforting to see that the RC church's attitude has moved with the times (not!) ~ well at least the good people of Antigua enjoy the spectacle of the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse ,saytheir prayers, make their confession and then go outside to the food stalls and consume vasts quatities of completely un-lenten food! Especially red meat and loads of chocolate cofections!

The sound and light display was pretty chilling, lots of soudn effects, screams, rushing winds, booming voices proclaiming damnation everybody seemed to be lapping it up! And obviously (hopefully) with their tongues tucked firmly in their cheeks ......   But this is the firsttime I have seen a high altar in a cathedral used in such a way!











THE VIDEO ..........   sorry for poor quality!   But worth it for the sheer "Cecil B deMilne"ness of it  all   -remember this is the Cathedral's message to the people for lent!








Cucuruchos
While the word cucuruchos now refers to the men who carry Semana Santa floats, the word originally meant a piece of cloth, paper or card that formed a cone, like the traditional hoods used for the processions. Its meaning has evolved over the centuries and is now used to talk about the actual person doing the carrying. Women who carry their own floats at different times are called Las Dolorosas.  (See note later on)



The heavy floats have to be carried through the streets and people pay for the privilege. It's considered to be a form of penance, to wipe away your actions of the previous year and start anew. People come from all over the country to carry the floats in the larger cities.





Everyone who signs up to be a cucurucho will be measured at the shoulders and assigned a turno, or shift. These shifts last for one block. Since the floats weigh up to 7,000 pounds each, with anywhere from 40-140 people carrying them, it's very important that they are well balanced and everyone is replaced frequently.
The typical garb for the cucuruchos is a purple tunic which includes a white or purple headdress or hood. On the morning of Good Friday, the headdresses used are white. Then, from Friday afternoon, everyone switches to black robes and headdresses to symbolize mourning. A black lantern is also part of the costume. The tunics are custom made by seamstresses or tailors during the weeks leading up to the processions.

The tunics used today are influenced by those used by Christian pilgrims in Central Europe in the 9th century. The tunic design was made official in the 1100's thanks to San Francisco de Asis (St. Francis de Asissi). In the early days in Guatemala, during the 16th century, these special tunics were only used by monks and were quite similar to their every day habits. In 1596, in the procession Jesús de la Candelaria, the first cucurucho tunics were used by common folk. Not much has changed over the generations and tunics today are still very similar to those used five hundred years ago.



Las dolorosas
It's important to note that las dolorosas, the women who carry in the processions, are not dressed the same way as the cucuruchos. While there is not actual costume or specific dress code for women, they traditionally wear dresses or blouses and skirts, black or white, depending on the day, with scarves or veils covering their heads. However, many younger carriers wear slacks or even jeans to the processions and don't cover their heads.
 As long as the code of black and white is followed, no one minds what they wear. Many women opt for high heels, which can be treacherous on the cobblestones, particularly with the swaying motion of the float. Women from the hermandades will usually add a cape to their outfit, but there is no standard in existence.

The women carry Mary, who trails behind the main float. Mary's float is usually smaller and less decorated. She is still an impressive figure, however, dressed in impressive robes and trimmed in gold in some processions. In some cases, she is accompanied by other female figures.

Hermandades
Hermandades, or brotherhoods, are separate from the church. There are male and female hermandades and these operate independently. These groups are formed to create elaborate floats and processions. They are the people responsible for just about everything you see in a procession. 

Each hermandad is named after the figure that the group works with. For example, La Hermandad de Jesús de la Caída de San Bartolomé Becerra is responsible for the procession which features Jesús de la Caída.These elders work year round in preparation for the elaborate celebrations. Their efforts include the following:

Fundraising
It takes a lot of money to elaborate the floats for the procession and arrange everything. All the statues taken from the church are fitted with new robes, fresh flowers are used to adorn the church and floats and alfombras are created in front of the church and altar. Fundraising is done through various drives, as well as charging people to carry the floats. They measure people's shoulder heights and organize them by shifts to ensure that everyone on a particular shift will be the same height for carrying the float. Other methods of fundraising include holding a kermesse, or a food fair, and sales of photos and soundtracks from previous Semana Santas.

The members of the hermandad often go door to door, as well, if they are in need of more funds for the santa semana. The floats are very expensive to decorate and costs can go as high as Q200,000. (£18,000)  (equivalent to £80-100K in UK terms!) They also have to pay the bands that accompany the float and Good Friday is particularly costly, with higher payments for bands and much more elaborate décor.

Float Preparation
Designing the floats is a long and complicated process. Each church has its own procession, with a specific theme, so the elders have to come up with a new adaptation of this theme each year. The actual floats take nearly 12 months to complete in most cases. When the processions are in progress, the members of the hermandades are the ones who make sure everything runs smoothly.

 

And to get over the shock . . . . . .

A lenten dish for you to try!

LENTEN FISH - AN ANTIGUA SPECIALITY!

For 8 to 10 portions
Soak 2 pounds of good dried fishin plenty of water overnight.

The next day throw the soaking water and wash the fish.
Leaving the fish in as many portions as needed.

With enough water to cook the fish for 10 minutes.
Fish should be cooked but still firm.

Drain and dry.

Beat until stiff: 4 Egg whites and then add the yolks.
Gently stir them. Flour the fish pieces and wrap them in the egg.
Fry in oil. Put the fish pieces on paper towels to degrease it.

Sperately fry in:
1 tablespoon oil

1/4 cup sliced ​​green onions
2 cups chopped tomatoes
2 cloves garlic, crushed
5 castile Peppers
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup peas tender
2 cups cubed squash or marrow
When it starts boiling put the fish and 1 pound of potatoes cut into thick slice.

Check the seasoning, add salt if you are missing. Boil all together for 8 to 10 minutes.

Serve!


I will be serving up more Lenten details during HOLY WEEK) (SEMANA SANTA!