Sunday 17 February 2013

Calm down dear, ... it's only a conservatoire!








Be warned ..... I am a bit angry, frustrated .................. saddened ..........

Some days I just want to head for the mountains!





Summer is truly here, although at 7 am it can be a bit chilly  (14 degrees) by ten o’clock the temperature has rocketed to nearly thirty, and the breeze from the Pacific drops and we swelter until around five pm when the breeze picks up.   The intensity of the sun is quite something and I try to avoid going out during the middle of the day.


“Plaza Vea” is a supermarket chain and anew branch has opened up just  a week ago and 200 yards from my front door a very useful addition to life for me, although of course I suspect it will hit the many small grocery shops hard.  Last Saturday – opening day – it felt as though half Trujillo had come along to see what all the fuss was about.  I returned yesterday and even though it was the same time as before the place was almost empty, but the quality of the food is good, clean, well presented.  And the aroz con leche   (rice pudding) to die for!   Creamy, sweet and full of big fat black raisins!  Mmmmmmmmm.  But I can now easily include a lot more fruit in my diet especially as grapes are only 75p per kilo.



OK ........ Here we go .......................

"A professor"

I feel so very sad for the students, in fact I was almost reduced to tears this week when I asked a conducting student of mine if he would like to play his trumpet to me. He was happy to oblige and at the appointed time arrived, so I said “ok play me one of your latest pieces” – he has been learning for three years – he replied “what pieces?” – “You know, the piece of music you are currently learning” – “but Maestro my professor has never given me a piece of music I just do exercises and play scales” - “what????   I felt sure I had misunderstood him, but no, I had heard perfectly correctly.    This is a scandal!   Students here respect their teachers and do what they are told without question, it is an utter dereliction of duty and an affront to “music” that a professor should choose not to give his pupils music to play.  When I realised that my student was not alone, it all started to make sense.  Another pupil had thanked me so much for giving time to accompany him and to give him for the first time some music to play that was written for his instrument! 

So many students have never played with an accompanist – which now is logical, because you don’t need a piano to accompany you if all you are playing is long notes and scales! It explains why so many students don’t (can’t) participate in the end of term concerts.   When I say I was almost in tears – this is no exaggeration, I felt sick to my stomach and so very, very embarrassed to call myself a teacher if my fellow teachers treat their pupils in this manner.  These professors are an affront to the idea of music and an affront to the Conservatoire.  Even as I am writing this I feel sooooo bad.


I am one man, I work 60 hours a week at the conservatoire devoting my time to those students who are keen, motivated and hungry to learn, but what I thought was indifference on the part of many other students is actually the fact that they have been completely numbed and demotivated by their professors.



"Profesor ............ "
OK so the professors are not well paid, S.1200 (£300) for a month working 15 hours a week, but it is the best salary available for a music teacher in northern Peru!  But the system – the syllabus – is designed to promote mediocrity – there are no independent examinations – all work is marked by the professors doing the teaching – the syllabus is a joke – there is no meaningful supervision, nothing to show the actual progress of a pupil ……………………


Last week before my “enlightenment” I exploded at a group of senor students in an ear training class telling them that their ability was less than I would expect from a five year old in the UK and that they should be ashamed to even think about the idea of calling themselves musicians – I have “performers” who ask which “You tube” video should I listen to and copy the interpretation – singers who have no idea of sight reading or how to pitch basic intervals – I hear a singing teacher systematically ruining voices by allowing their pupils to do exercises which are actually damaging  the voice letting their pupils “scream and screech” – with no idea of a “method” and allowing their pupils to sings arias from operas that are doing more harm than good.  They should be building up their pupils not destroying them. The singing teachers also do a good job at ruining pianos, as they BANG out exercises by hitting the keys!



A Euphonium pupil told me his professor uses a “method” designed for the bass trombone, the difference between to the two instruments is that of “chalk and cheese” and finally, in this rant-et, and another pupil uses a text book written in Russian as no other is available – except that when I went to the library there were at least 10 technical manuals for his instrument with diagrams and one book in several different languages including Espanol!  But of course pupils cannot actually enter the library, they can only ask for books via a catalogue and the professor you can examine the books) was obviously too lazy to look himself.


"No need to worry, as I will both write and mark the test"
Now, I cannot change the system, I am one man, I can only do what I can, and try my hardest to give those pupils I work with the very best of me and hope that some of my ideas affect, or shame, others into a more professional way of working.  But the system here is the system and nobody is particularly bothered to change it.  It is just so sad that I see “potential” and the only reason pupils fail to attain their potential is that their professors are incapable or indifferent ……… rather than improve their students they get jealous of talent and try to destroy it


The preferred approach to developing musical talent
But, I have been asked by another European trained professor to reinvigorate his small music academy and to offer music training according to a plan that will actually enable and animate  students and not to be ground down by the indifference of others. Watch this space, my orginal contract was to volunteer for 20 hours at the conservatoire and maybe I will return to that and devote the other 40 hours I have available to a school that is more Ethical? Enlightened? Enthusiastic?


I have printed almost 2500 pages in the last six weeks and spent some £100  on additional photocopies all to provide my pupils with material for my courses, they are shocked to receive so much necessary course materials ……..  normally they have to take notes by dictation ..... what a waste of time .... but a cop out for a lazy profesor! 


OK rant over!!!!!!!!....... enjoy the beauty of this piece of music which I plan to perform with a gifted Euphonium student ..... (and a student I vow not to allow to become disillusioned).....



Astor Piazolla - Oblivion arranged  for Euphonium and Piano




and now .......

National branding

I have downloaded the forms necessary to apply for a visa that will allow me to work and live here on a more permanent basis.  I need to earn a little money if I can, especially if I want to move out of my room and to a flat.

I do care and I do feel  ........

In all this hustle and bustle and in the turmoil of my days, I still maintain a private life and hold my “me” time as sacred, poor Nick suffers from having to hear me let off steam but he always gives me the space to get things off my chest although he did politely remind me that when I said my anger and frustration was in no way directed at him, he did feel occasionally that my feelings spilled over into our time …… point noted! This burgeoning relationship is the most important non-musical thing in my life here, and has a profundity I have never experienced before.





Well Thursday was San Valentin – which here is both the day for lovers (no? really? I never knew that!)  and now, the day of friendship (surely they can find another day for that!) – Nick and I went out to our favourite French Creperie – cool Jazz cd's, great atmosphere, Edith Piaf, cocktails, pizza, beer, crepes and flavoured macerated fruit based rums! We were due to meet in the restaurant at 8:15 I had overrun in a rehearsal at the Conservatoire and at 8:06 flew home to change and got to the restaurant at 8:25, it was packed full of couples and groups (of pairs) and there was Nick sitting at a table in solitary splendour waiting for me... in front of him a box of chocolates for me, I had brought nothing (shame on me) – the size of the table meant our meal was of necessity an intimate affair but that was just, well, .......perfect!


Happy and contented ......
Sticky fingers
We were oblivious to the fact that we were the only male couple – well Nick did say at one point that had I noticed we were"the only **** in the village” – “yes, and your point is?”  (He didn’t actually use that phrase – but would have done had he seen “little Britain”) – I had explained about Shrove Tuesday both the pancakes and the verb “to shrive” – and so we elected to have some pancakes with lemon juice and sugar and also share a plate of “Snickers Crepes” – we had our photo taken and mysteriously, due to the effects of the flash no doubt, a message magically appeared …….. as did a very chocolaty finger!










Juany and Peter of Otra Cosa

 Finally, yesterday I was very kindly invited to breakfast with Juany (from Otra Cosa) she is in Peru to visit her sick mother, welcome the new Manager and amongst other things took the time and trouble to see me.  Excellent breakfast, fruits cereals,  big vegetable stuffed pancakes, roast pork and a huge selection breads …… what an excellent way to start the day!  I am to write an article for the Otra Cosa blog …….  I so want to encourage more volunteers to work in music …….



My tuning key and wires for the harpsichord still have not arrived, another petty frustration …..

However,   despite what you may think,  I am basically
very ........ 


 and 



 but I got me one  (Thanks!)






Sunday 3 February 2013

Tut-tut, chink-chink, 123-123, plink-plink, .........






HAPPY PISCO SOUR DAY  (February 2nd)  - What do you mean you did not have it in your calendar?


I am well settled in my “summer routine” of giving classes, taking rehearsals and slowly, slowly bring the harpsichord back to life and of course having “me” time ……  well, in the last blog the cliff hanger was celebrating three months here in Trujillo, aided and abetted by Nick!

Tut-tut

Well ………………….   



The celebration ……………….




El Celler de Cler -  My trip advisor review -  "they say revenge is a dish best served cold" - bit like the service!  - so wish I had thought of that when I wrote ......

"Trujillo Special evening ruined by poor service" 

This was my second visit in a month, on the first occasion everything was fine. Last night prices had increased and service had declined. What was planned as a special evening was ruined by poor service, I live in Trujillo and can speak Spanish, the waitress acted as though I was speaking some language from the planet Zog and kept asking my partner to confirm what I had said (he, a Peruano, gave me 95% for my Spanish), we ordered drinks, mains with a salad that we specified we wanted served with the mains. The last time we were there, we had a complimentary appetizer/starter, this time nothing. The waitress also failed to point out that a salad was included in our meal, so I wasted 22 Soles and she at one point tried to serve us with three plates of salad - which were sent back!






 

The drinks failed to materialize before the salads were brought, we had long since consumed the plate of garlic bread nibbles. 20 minutes no drinks and then three salads! She had forgotten that we had specifically asked for the salad with our main course. She had carefully laid out the cutlery - completely incorrect - why would I need two steak knives to eat pasta?
 


When the main course arrived, mine looked like it had been sitting around for a while as it had developed a skin on the sauce. We were offered complimentary olives after our meal?????

This is one of the more expensive restaurants in Trujillo, and getting more expensive ..... the service offered does not warrant the price, nor does the quality of the food ..... service 1 out of ten, food this time - 4 out of ten...... ability to ruin an evening 10 out of ten.

This was our last meal at this pretentious restaurant - on leaving the "patron" addressed us as "chicos" (boys) - I am a man of 56! He agreed my Spanish was perfectly acceptable as I told him in Spanish, his restaurant's service was Not acceptable! 


http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g298444-d2664005-Reviews-El_Celler_de_Cler-Trujillo_La_Libertad_Region.html

As I had the e-mail address of the restaurant I sent them a copy of the review as well as some other comments, I have yet to receive a reply …… I am not holding my breadth!  Their loss, so many other restaurants to sample here.



Clink-clink

On a Friday evening Nick and I seem to be developing a routine of a nice drink to celebrate the weekend (I discount my Saturday and Sunday morning work/practice) our favourite place at the moment is a Pisco Bar Viejo de viejos (we go early when it is quiet) the serve the strongest and largest “Black Russians” I have ever drunk – long glass about 1/3 vodka, 1/3 kahlua the other third is ice and a slug of coca-cola!  All for a stunning £2.50 (S.10), the only problem is that after the cocktail and a couple of bowls of peanuts we both experience a heightened sense of hunger …… and then have to wander off for pollo a la brasa (flamed grilled half a chicken) and a litre of sangria!  But then it is only the start of the weekend once a week!  And we really are trying to save some money for Colombia in April.

Every visit to Viejo I do promise myself a “pisco sour” for which the bar is famous but, I so love Black Russians!

123-123






Last weekend the international Marinera dance competition was held and last Saturday the 2012 campeones (champions) celebrated their last day before handing over to the 2013 champions on the Sunday.  The celebration was a parade around the centre of town, they were all their, child, youth and adult champions, there seemed to be a category of champion for every need …… over 50, over 60, some dancers were definitely over 80 and I am sure I saw the couple who invented the Marinera back in 18th century dancing, they even do marinera on horseback!


It was fun, even though I realised I had not put any sun-block on and we were standing in the mid-day sun for well over an hour – well actually, wandering, there was absolutely no crowd control, so you simply wandered into the procession to take piccies etc …..  a little worrying when a horse bolted and a young girl got knocked over by the horses handler, who was more than a little over weight, somehow he managed to avoid squashing the girl as he also fell over.










I love the sheer informality of things here, needless to say the parade was followed by a good lunch. Not expensive but a wonderful fish lunch, ceviche, chiccarones, arroz con mariscos, beer ……







The students and I are really started to get on well, they laugh with me at my Spanish, help me when I am stumped for a word and raise their eyes to heaven when I invent a word – (Spanish-i-fying an English word) – not as crazy as it seems there are some 3000 plus words that are almost exactly the same in both languages – and maybe 60% of the time I hit the nail of the head.   (mas o menos)


Plink-plink

The main preoccupation now is the harpsichord, I spent 5 hours yesterday painstakingly cleaning every key with cotton buds, dipped in water with a very little detergent – and then started to tackle the regulation of the action. This involves making small adjustments to the quills which pluck the strings so that each key is plucked at the same moment, thus ensuring an even tone – this involved about 160 small adjustments made to a tiny screw over each quill.  But because the instrument has sat unplayed I still have a lot of work to do in countering the effects of humidity and a little warping of the wood. 

I am receiving excellent advice from Carey Beebe a harpsichord specialist in Australia, who is familiar with the maker of this harpsichord (made in Japan 2000 by A. Sato), I have purchased a tuning key (called a hammer) a selection of special wire to replace broken strings and some extra quills. At the current moment only one string is broken, but again, these strings have not been adjusted for years and are a little corroded, so I feel certain one or two more may break. I am hoping the parcel arrives by next weekend ……..
 

So that’s about it for now,  went to Huanchaco last night to catch the sunset and realized just how much I really do not like the place, way, way to back-packy for me, half the tourists Europeans and Aussies, looked like a good shower wouldn’t have gone amiss, and being so touristy you are plagued with vendors and the food is overpriced, poor quality and distinctly not Peruvian!   

And! ….. they have removed all the rocks from the beach and replaced them with sand, so there is now, no community of Pelicans, but tonnes more space for sun bathing! Not my idea of progress,  but the sunset though not a spectacular as the sunset I witnessed from my room on Friday  (purples, oranges and deep-deep pinks and fushia shades) was worth the trip.

Trujillo is the home of "marinera"  you simply cannot escape it, even the beer ........
 well I find it easier to drink than dance!


















Oh yes, MOT what MOT?


















Finally some more Marinera ....  note the incredible foot work of both dancers .......  123-123




Hasta Luego Amigos ........................   hic!