Kerala - like going back home!

NAMASTE!

India - Kerala is bottom left.

Saturday 25 August

After a splendid Birthday celebration and first anniversary of my great adventure on the Friday night, and replenished by a traditional English breakfast lest for Birmingham airport and my flights via Dubai to Kochi in Kerala India. 15 hours journey time.

Sunday 26 August

10/10 for food on Emirates. 0/10 for entertainment systems, on both flights my system failed to function and 0/10 for boarding process – was there one? In consequence both flights departed and arrived late.

Met at the very efficient Cochin airport by Sunny, his son Johann and Sunny's younger brother-in-law, we set off in the now old fashioned workhorse of the Indian roads the “Ambassador Car” - (they stopped producing the Ambassador within the UK in 1956 and production shifted to India – it is still being built despite its almost complete lack of a turning circle, its extreme weight and hopeless mpg, but it can cope with the roads here just like a 4x4). We stopped for breakfast and I was straight back to Kerala food – Pal-Appam and Beef Curry (in Kerala Beef is regularly eaten – obviously not by the Hindu's) and as we were eating a procession went by in honour of the God Ganesha. So pleased, as Ganesha always turns up in my life in India at auspicious moments. Ganesha is the Elephant God of good fortune.

Johan - Sunny's son.

Making the Thali

Arrived to Sunny's house and soon into the hustle and bustle of the wedding – Sunny's other brother-in-law Jinu, was getting married the next day. After lunch, rice, vegetables, and fish curry (had forgotten just how blisteringly hot the red curry sauce on the fish can be!) had a nap ready for the pre-wedding getting together at Jinu's parents house. 

Given that around 800 people were expected for the wedding (well for the food actually) everything including the "groom" was very calm and though outwardly things looked chaotic all necessary tasks were being performed, guests welcomed and about 50 people fed! We were all hoping for a rain free wedding day as this part of Kerala had in the last few days been experiencing exceptional monsoon rains and most side roads were simply rivers, only local knowledge defining where the single track road to Jinu's house ended and the paddy fields began a difference between 6 inches of water and 2 feet!

Dressing the groom

Paparazzi!

Mother's final inspection

Jinu is in the army and was on 2 months wedding leave, in October he will return to Kashmir were he is stationed in what is still disputed territory between India and Pakistan. After the wedding his wife will live with his parents and younger brother in the family house. Kerala is a model of community harmony, the populations consists of almost equal parts Hindu, Muslim, Christian and "others", communities share each others feasts. With Onam (which is Hindu in origin) celebrated by all as a national thanksgiving for "god's own country". Kerala society is also technically matriarchal, though I have never seen any evidence of this.

Kerala life is also dictated by many, many traditions (and superstitions), also aspects of Hindu tradition are incorporated into the wedding service (Christian, Syrian Orthodox) so during the evening threads are drawn from the red wedding sari of the bride (though this sari is never actually worn - it cost in the region of Rs.10,000/- which would represent in real terms 1.5 times an average monthly salary!) and will be used to make the Thali (a Hindu sacred thread which will be tied round the neck of the bride by the groom to signify the fact the bride is now a wife – she will wear this Thali for 4 days) wedding rings are also exchanged, as are gold crosses. Although now disputed in the courts property passes to the youngest son in Kerala along with the responsibility for looking after the parents, so three or even four generations may be living in the same house. The guys grandparents and parents, (on fathers side). and his own offspring. In India not having a son is considered a great tragedy (“may you be the Mother of 101 sons” being an Indian blessing!) Sadly these days very few of the original long, low and wonderfully carved wooden Kerala family houses exist, being pulled down in favour of large concrete constructions, with a compound and high walls.

Wedding makers or breakers1

Monday 27 August

As an “honorary” close relative I received as a gift my own wedding outfit (kurta, pyjama) duly apparelled we set of for Jinu's for the dressing of the groom! (fotos to follow) His brother and brothers-in-law (and me, honorary brother-in-law) get to dress the groom, making sure, in this case that; he is powdered ( so he won't sweat in the fotos), his shirt is on properly, trousers suitably hitched, tie correct, etc. All this duly carried out under the watchful eyes of the photographers and videographers! I got to sort out his belt and make sure his tie was correct!

The service conducted by the Bishop and about six priests (good source of income- all attending priests will receive "expenses") took just over an hour, with the photographers seemingly holding sway, all done, we retired to the hall for lunch, the 350 people upstairs were friends of friends of friends of the happy couple and were there solely for the lunch (only about 150 people bothering to attend the service even though the church and hall were in the same complex, many will not even have caught a glimpse of the happy couple, but all are welcome, all are fed!) and downstairs a further 250 first sitting and a further 200 second sitting. I was first sitting and sitting near to the stage along with closest relatives, excellent food (pilau rice, chicken curry, salads and pickles, ice cream. No drink , Christians are all [nominally] teetotal) Monday is traditionally Christian wedding day, in the towns many students will gate crash in order to get a good meal, and all "wayfaring folk" will also be given food. Food left over is traditionally given to the poor.

After lighting of sacred lights (another borrowing from Hindu tradition), the couple feed each other cake (another borrowing) and lunch is served and a mere 15 - 20 minutes later we are all done and back outside waiting to waive the bride and groom off back to his house for further ceremonies.

Kerala boasts the oldest Christian community in the world (outside of the Holy Land) as tradition is that the religion was brought here by the Apostle Thomas (doubting Thomas) in AD 52! It was only comparatively recently that the RC Church admitted this fact. Preferring to give the credit to St Francis Xavier, actually the Catholics all but destroyed everything belong to the Syrian (Orthodox) Christians in their attempts to stamp out its history. St. Thomas is buried in what is now Chennai (Madras). Many ancient churches from the 11th century still exist they are notable for their many similarities to Hindu temples.

There is a lovely story as part of the Orthodox tradition here that when Mary was dying all the apostles were summoned to her bedside, Thomas was late as the cloud he was being bourne aloft on was a bit slow, this giving the excuse for Indian railways today to always run late! However he was given Mary's cincture (belt), for effort(?), this is now venerated as a sacred relic.

Simon was at the wedding along with his son Joshua and we left for Simon's house where I was to spend three days and celebrate Onam. It was lovely to see Simon, his son Joshua aged 5 and identical twin daughters Anna and Sarah, aged 2. The last time I saw Joshua he was 4 hours old and strangely didn't remember Michael uncle!!

Simon took me to his office, shop and internet cafe in Konni, local town to Simon's house in Kizhavalloor whilst we made purchases for the upcoming Onam celebrations.

Simon's son Joshua

Tuesday 28 August - First Day of Onam

Tradition!

Water drinking competition

Spent the morning at the local parish hall where games and lunch had been organised for the children of the parish by the church youth movement. Great fun seemed to be had by all, even if to me some of the games were rather extreme including water drinking (how many cups can you drink before you rush to the latrine to be sick) , chilli eating (how many chillies can you eat before you rush to the latrine to be sick) ~ Simon won this competition after consuming 36 green chillies, he was not actually sick but certainly was a little overheated! Then a very traditional game whereby blindfolded men with big sticks try to smash a pot full of water suspended overhead, needless to say there w,ere more cracked skulls than pots. Finally there was a general tug-of-war, three rounds I participated in two rounds, once on each side – I helped both teams win, so it was generally felt that I made the difference. After which Onam lunch was served. This is a very particular meal and is served in every household during Onam irrespective of religious affiliation. (See notes on Onam). After lunch went to see Simon's offices in Pathanamthita (the boy's doing good!) bought some sweets for the family and returned home.

Simon ate 36 chillies in about 20 seconds!

After effects!

Wednesday 29 August – Second (main) day of Onam

Wore my special Onam Munda and Kurta and looked the perfect Malayali, visited Simon grandparents and returned for Onam lunch. Simon is quite a stickler for tradition so we men including Joshua, eat first and alone, served by the women. So his mum wife and two daughters wait until we are finished and take their food in the kitchen, we having eaten at the dining table.

Simon and I are involved in a "dance of precedence," as elder brother in some things I take precedence and in others, as I am in his house, he has precedence. He decides when we sit down for meals, but I decide when we leave the table! He decides the programme for the day, but I decide the timings! All very good natured. And of course he has the expectation that when I eventually retire-retire I will live here, as it is his duty to look after me (Sunny has the same expectation - they both see me shuttling between their two houses!)

I have forgotten just how much I love the food here, completely different to Indian food as eaten outside of India (which is 95% north Indian food prepared by Bangladeshi's!) - Onam being an original Hindu feast all the food is vegetarian, but the Kerala diet is very heavy on meat especially Beef and Chicken. But incredibly meat here is now almost as expensive as in the UK (definitely more expensive than Tesco's) so most people now only eat meat as a treat, and with a long coastline fish is consumed in vast quantities, especially Tuna, Sardines and Mackerel. Fish is either served in a blistering hot chilli sauce or dried fried in a more aromatic spice mixture, both types being offered together.

Being foto'd after eating one raw chilli!

In the afternoon Simon drove his wife Julie and the three children to Julie's parents where they are staying for a day or two, on our return to Simon's house he got stuck into some work and I am here writing my blog!

Incessant rain!

Maylayalam alphabet   53 letters  including 14 vowels

Surprised at just how much of my Malayalam is coming back - recognition of the letters, words and phrases. All the folk here are amazed if a "Sype" = sahib = foreigner can utter even a single word of Malayalam. (The word Malayalam is "probably" the longest palindrome in English!)

The local temple priests have been chanting to the accompaniment of the Veena (South Indian instrument like a Sitar) since 6 am (it is now 10) with everything broadcast via speakers floating to us through the trees ~ the constant repetition of the word "OM" and the use of chants has an incredibly hypnotic effect ~ rather than driving you crazy!

The next blog will cover my final few days here in Kerala and my arrival in the teeming city of Kolkata. Hope you enjoyed this!

Finally, the Onam meal in all its Vegetarian glory!

Reflection on my time back in blighty!

Reflection on my time back in blighty!

My UK hosts Martin and Jean

I had a lovely time back in the UK, Martin and Jean going the extra mile with their hospitality, visiting friends, my trip to Brighton and Hove (actually) to see James and Andy, and my first anniversary of retirement / great adventure / birthday dinner on my last night.

Martin and Jean also kindly collected some personal possessions being held in store for me by Jo (my late mothers best friend) including photos I had long since thought destroyed.

But, I did so feel like a "fish out of water" I could never afford to live back in the UK and I think would struggle now to find a role for myself, so it is more than just as well that I am enjoying my nomadic life, with so many opportunities to experience life at the "coal face" and join in much simpler pleasures.

My favourite teashop in Brighton - who's that in the window?

I was left with the impression of a country that, led by government policy, is becoming "harder", less caring and for many less hopeful! Everybody (well, except the rich) having less and needing to be distracted from the daily grind , (happily [?] the jubilee and the Olympics were on hand, to fill that particular vacuum).

But, I admire people like Martin who have taken the opportunity to re-appraise their situation and to adopt a different lifestyle, and finding that actually many things thought necessary for existence turn out to be illusory! Less can definitely be more!

I also realised that even my now 3.5 bags of possessions are too much and on my return to the UK en-route to Peru indulge in a further purge.

My notebook computer, my artists materials (pencils now), a few clothes, my camera and I think I am all set. I may indulge myself in a Kindle, to save space on books and I need to keep a small case of personal papers. Everything else is down to the intangibles of experiences and friendships and the sharing of knowledge.

Happy, happy, happy! Thanks to all those who commented on the fact that pictures of me seem to show an increasingly big smile! I am not smug as it is not all a bowl of roses but it is worth the effort!

So here is a round-up of pictures taken during my 10 days in the UK!

James and I + Cheddarz

James and Andy

Mr Bird.

So very true!

At the Trout in Godstow

A day of county cricket (Edgbaston  Warsc v Middx)

Back in the UK

Artists Impression of Completed complex

Having a few technical problems with pictures this week ..... sorry!  So only two pics lifted from internet.

Well, here I am in the kitchen at Martin and Jean's and it's blog time! Well, I feel strangely out of place, Birmingham strikes me as drab, people look drab, the sky is grey and rain seems ever present, (although today, Sunday is set to be hot and Sunday – though I have virtually demanded a Sunday roast). Despite that fact that in Guatemala the carrying of guns is pretty commonplace, the people are friendly and welcoming, those of Mayan heritage dressed in traditional clothes and everything is colourful and bright and of course, everybody greets one another in the street, buenas dias, buenas tardes, etc, here to merely look in the direction of many on the street makes me feel as though I might get a load of “verbal”, I find the streets of central Birmingham slightly intimidating. The highlight though has to be the new library building, such an uplifting and happy design! And things are much more cilvilised in Harborne - where Martin and Jean live.

Linked to this slightly “fish out of water” feeling I have also experienced a level of anxiety, which surfaced yesterday and caused me to miss the opportunity go an open-air concert at Harwood House. I can't exactly put my finger on the exact cause, but lets just say it was a bit of a wake up call. Sweaty palms, racing heart-rate and a wave of nausea – classic potential panic attack. Anyways, I feel better today, having spent most of yesterday, slowly carefully and relatively calmly, setting up my new notebook to function the way I want it to and not the way, Acer and Microsoft think I want it to!

One by-product of a relaxed Latin American life style is that I weathered what was a truly frustrating yet comic processes of applying for my Indian visa. A system designed as a gigantic catch 22 of such proportions to match the vastness of India. You need to apply online, the online system is pretty unstable especially when signal strengths are poor and slow. You have to book an appointment, and because I am in UK for only 10 days 3 of which are at the weekend and 2 are public holidays in India, so I had a 5 working day window for a process that takes 1 day plus 2/3 for processing, pretty tight!

Anyways, I complete the form as best I can given the fact I am in Guatemala and some details were in my old passport in the UK. I assumed I could make the slight changes when I had the face-to-face meeting at the Consulate. So I duly arrive at the consulate for my 8:30 meeting, but the place is locked at there is already a long queue, I am about 20^th in the queue, the door is eventually unlocked at 9:30 there are about 150 people here now. But we file up the stairs in order and I get to the reception window and ask for my queue ticket, “very sorry Sir, but you are in wrong building, you need Visa Application Centre” all accompanied by head wagging and beaming smiles, “but the address on the form......” “yes, it is consulate address but processing now done elsewhere......” “there is no notice to say downstairs........” “no Sir, no room on notice board for a notice ….... but instructions and a notice are on the back of the door , there …...” “the back of the door …..” “yes Sir it is more convenient when people are leaving here because they are in wrong building they can see instructions as they pass through the door!”

OK so over 90 minutes late for my appointment I eventually find the Visa Application Centre, the security guard receptionist, made no comment, and when asked sid I as one of about 20 – 30 people everyday who have the same experience! Nice to know I am not alone! It probably explains why the place was virtually empty, I imagined all these souls clutching copies of their applications wandering the streets of the Jewellery Quarter here in Brum, well, I am number 1001 and I am number 2 in the queue.

I purchase my photos, the size is unique to the Consulate and the two photos cost me £4.

I am greeted at the counter by a very smartly dressed and polite assistant, who having taken a quick glance at my form says “oh, you want to make a change, sorry Sir, but this is not possible, you will have to reapply, we cannot change the form it must be 100% correct on completion online. There was an ancient on-line machine (£1 for 20 minutes) which would have cost around £3 as I could not imagine refilling the form in less time, oh yes, and you cannot copy and paste the original details you have to start from scratch. I decide to come back to Martin and Jean's and do the form and get permission to resubmit the form the next day.

The next day, Friday, all is well my application is accepted (£43.50. Visa fee £30, Consular fee £2, Processing fee £10 and SMS texts £1.50) I say how relieved I am to know processing is only 2/3 days as I am flying on the 25^th. “you need to read this advice Sir” “You are advised to only purchase airline tickets after you have received your visa” …..... “oh, and Sir, next Monday is a bank holiday in India, so we will not be working!” It will be close but I think I should have my visa next Thursday or Friday!

All this being a fitting introduction to the more literal, truncated thinking and logic of the sub-continent. But I survived and my blood pressure did not go into the red zone!

Friday was also the day I bought a new notebook, and I am so pleased with my “dinky” 10.1 inch Acer, Aspire One in a lovely shiny red colour! I am still happy with even after spending best part of 7 hours setting it up the way I want it. These days there is no manual – so you can't “RTFM” when things don't quite go to plan, but I simply plugged it in and away it went ready to be modified. So after 7 hours, I have internet, my i-google homepage, i-tunes (I am proud that I successfully transferred the 8465 “toons” from my external hard drive with hardly a hitch!)

I have abandoned Microsoft Office in favour of “Open Office” the open source and free office suite. And this is my first document using the word processor.

I really like not to be controlled by Mr. Bill Gates thanks all the same!

My other major purchase so far is a set of 50 coloured pencils, drawing pencils and a A5 drawing pad. I have decided that I shall try to record my time in India with photos (of course) but also in line and coloured drawings, which is a new medium for me and again I plan to work it out as I go, see what happens.

Looking forward to India, both in terms of seeing my Indian brothers, Simon and Sunny and the families, but also for the fact that I shall be getting back to music with my 5 week residency with the Calcutta Chamber Orchestra. A fitting prelude to my 6 month stint at the Music Conservatoire in Trujillo, Peru.

I need to reflect more on my need now for a more quiet and reflective life, work out what it means, and how best to feed it! I am sure that my Nomadic model is the right answer, just as I approach the start of year two, I need to learn and discover new ways of living and doing!

But, suffice it to say, I don't feel as though I am now at “home” in the UK, I am worrying that my Spanish will regress again, but I know that once I get to Peru it will flood back. I plan to arrange specific Spanish converstion classes to jump start things.

So, I am missing my “frijoles” (beans) and my tortillas, but am planning a Guatemalan celebration of my 56^th birthday and 1st anniversary of my grand adventure on Friday!

So, if you have been, thanks for reading!

Hasta Luego Amigos.

Adios de mi amigos en Guatemala!

So, here we are, my last blog to be written on this trip to Guatemala, packing is half done, need to buy an extra carry-on bag and a couple of typically themed tee-shirts. I came out with three suitcases plus an extra bag – I am returning with two suit cases less, the first thing I have learned is it is pretty pointless carrying excess of anything around the world.  Si this last week I have been on another give “it all away spree.”

I am ready to leave in another sense, Antigua was an obvious choice to start out on this adventure, but I feel that despite its obvious beauty and architectural wonders it is not Guatemala and was probably the worst place In Guatemala I could have chosen to learn Spanish~ sure Antigua is crawling with Spanish Schools all offering 1-2-1 tuition and all much of a muchness. They cater for the enthusiastic tourist, volunteer here for may be 2 – 4 weeks who needs a grounding in the language, to become fluent I needed to be in a part of Guatemala where English was not the fall-back position.  So I hope for greater things in Peru!  My knowledge of the grammar of Spanish is pretty thorough but now it all needs to be put to use!  Here, everybody wants to show off their English and before you know it you are talking English not Spanish.  But never mind, this adventure is about living and learning, after all.

Renting the house was the right thing to do, but the house I rented though possessing a lovely garden was inconvenient and its position in this lovely garden made it a magnet for every kind of biting insect imaginable, all they all seemed to find a way into the bed! My legs have only just recovered from the myriad of bites.  In Peru I am sticking to the volunteer house (will have a double room with private bath)  and when I feel the need for a change will go and spend a couple of nights somewhere in a reasonable hotel, or share a flat maybe. But again live and learn.

Adjusting to life in a shared house has had it’s ups and downs, being 55, and I suppose a bit more set in my way (though I like to think pretty damned flexible) it is hard sharing with 20 something’s who all seem to think that the fairies come down at night and do the washing up, put stuff away and generally keep the place habitable. Whilst determined not to play the martyr, there have been periods here in the volunteer house when I have stuck to washing only my own things and demonstrably doing my washing up immediately after eating, and just leaving other peoples mess to themselves. But, in the end despite you do end up doing it, otherwise there are going to be rats everywhere!  They don’t seem to get the fact that the houses are open, there is no back door, the kitchen is open, and their Mum is not here to look after them!  In Peru from my investigations, the volunteer house, seems to be better organised is only available to selected volunteers who as its says “will maintain and care for the house as if it was there own – it is not a party space and not availble to volunteers under 21”.   But as an early riser, I was showered and would be drinking my first cup of coffee (with ojitas) by six a.m. so pretty much had the place to myself.

 Again, I feel I have also learned a lot about selecting organisations and projects, there were so many problems and “politics” associated with the project in Santiago Zamora that it was only from around Easter when I decided to just focus on my art classes and withdraw any participation in the politics of the project that I started to enjoy myself.  (My views on this are in my previous blog).  In Peru I am going to be teaching music and working with orchestras and choirs and much groups so I reckon it will be different. 

It was only recently that I realised that most of the dissatisfaction I had been feeling was simply because I had strayed from my original intention.  Live simply, no responsibility, be a volunteer only, (don’t get involved in the organisations), no romantic entanglements (amigos con derechos only!), to be open to new ideas, to enjoy myself and to move on when I get bored ……

Six months in one place is certainly about right, it also coincides with most countries visa rules.

With the Otra Cosa network in Peru I also have the advantage that they run so many projects that if the main one does not  work out (or I need a break) I could escape to the mountains or the jungle. And that whilst Huanchaco is a Latin American tourist destination in the summer (Nov- Mar) the tourists are Latinos not gringos! In any case I will need to leave Peru after 183 days! (But can re-enter after a few days).

I have made some good friends here, and re-established one or two old friendships from past trips, and I have to say that the internet really does play a positive part here, inasmuch, as friendships can be maintained. In the case of Peru, I am already talking to some people, who I am sure will make my arrival in Huanchaco less daunting.

So, despite this all sounding a bit negative, I am happy, have been on a steep learning curve and know that year two of the grand adventure is going to be better. I am going to make sure my Spanish improves, going to look for more opportunities to do get involved in the local community and be even more open to new experiences. My plans for Ecuador (after Peru) will do this nicely as I hope to work on an Alpaca farm, live with a small village community of 45 people in the Amazon jungle, and also live with a community in a dry coastal forest.

Guatemala has served it purpose as a gentle introduction to Latin America, I give a score of “6 out of 10” for year one with the comment “Can, must and will do better next year”  (That sounds just like my school reports!)

So thanks to all the folks at CasaSito and to my friends Jossefet, Eduardo (Erick), Abdias, Marvin, Ricardo and Eny for making my time in Guatemala so enjoyable. (Oh.......  and my Korean students!)

Suny one of my Korean students of English

Now where’s my promised toasted Hovis, butter, and Coopers Marmalade all washed down with some strong breakfast tea!   Martin and Jean are working hard to make me feel truly back in the UK! 

I leave today at 16:00 for the city and spend the night at my friend Eny’s place, he is then driving me to the airport for my 06:26 flight to Houston, then to Neward and finally I arrive in Birmingham Wednesday at  07:10.

So a final Volcano Fuego update:

In a special bulletin on 3 August, 2012, INSIVUMEH reported a new phase of activity at Fuego, characterized by increased seismicity and degassing sounds. Incandescent tephra was ejected 200 m high and a lava flow travelled 500 m down the SW flank into the Taniluya drainage. Pyroclastic flows likely descended the SE and SW flanks. During 4-7 August explosions produced ash plumes that rose 200-400 m above the crater and drifted NW and W. Lava flows travelled 250-300 m down the Taniluyá drainage. Detached blocks from the lava-flow front travelled down the flanks to the vegetated area. Blocks also traveled down the Ceniza drainage (SSW). At night during 5-6 August explosions ejected incandescent tephra 100 m above the crater. 

“Such a shame all that tephra was on the other side of the volcano from Antigua!”

(Like I actually know what tephra is! )

With me good friend Eduardo aka Eric!

 And now I am signing out of Guatemala and setting off for blighty and Brum!

 (A more considered review will follow later!)

FINALLY!

From the "Newage 2012" website:

"Are you ready?

The year 2012 is upon us.

Ready or not, the Mayan calendar is running out, the universe is expanding, and our chance to get to know one another barely starts a ripple on the vast ocean of time.

Come in and share the madness as we spin into the void of eternity consumed in the fire of planetary destruction.

Be here when first contact occurs, the poles reverse and you suddenly find yourself on the opposite side of the world, or when beams of energy from the sun transform cats into the most intelligent life on earth."

 Meeeeow   (some of us already new this about cats!)

.........No really the final thing .... a few pictures not mine of sunset in Antigua ......ahhhh how appropriate!

Hasta Luego Amigos