Monday 27 February 2012

"All about ASH" Volcanic and last Wednesday's!


This weeks Orchids!



“If only”

The Scriptures “moveth us, in sundry places” these words are part of the opening exhortation for the ordering of Evening Prayer according to the Book of Common Prayer.  I heard them beamed across the ether to Guatemala direct from Hereford Cathedral for Choral Evensong for Ash Wednesday.

Hereford Cathedral
It was odd listening to Cathedral Choral Evensong whilst lying in my bed at 9:30 in the morning being “moved, in sundry places” thanks so to some very dodgy food yesterday!  I have been “moved in sundry places” for the last 18 hours and am about ready for it all to stop! (sorry, if that is all too much information!)


The rather grey looking noodles with a lump or two of “meat” were served to me by a very sad and obviously poor young woman, desperately trying to eek out a living by not quite running a “comedor” (food stall) based around a two ring burner and a barely functioning fridge!  But having committed myself I felt I could not back out of the set lunch!  “If only” the one good thing about the lunch was the piping hot tortillas which had an amazing taste.  With the meat I kept thinking “lamb” but then Lamb is not available here ( or when it is is VERY expensive) and it wasn’t pork or chicken and yet the bones seemed to small for Beef ……………… so was probably Goat. The biggest shock to my system (before being moved that is)was the Q.18 (£1.60) is was charged!

Shame really as last Thursday in my usual “comedor” (in the same town of San Antonio Aquas Calientes) I had an animated discussion about food and the women agreed to cook a really nice fish soup/stew with lots of camerones.  Seeing the shop barred and locked I can only assume some family problem had befallen them….. I really hope it is nothing too serious.  I miss my Q.13  lunch  (£1.25).

“If only - part II”

Here is not the place to go into details but “if only” somebody had chosen their words more carefully I would not have spent 48 hours in turmoil over my future role here, suffice it  to say that somebody had found just the right way to “light my blue touch paper”  and the fireworks were spectacular!  Still now things have simmered down maybe it will lead to a better solution!



Today “was” Ash Wednesday

Hence being moved in sundry places by the Dean of Hereford on Radio 3! (Hello Michael [Mr.Dean] if you are reading this!) and Antigua is starting to get geared up for its orgy of processions leading up to the biggest display of religious procession for Holy week IN THE WORLD!  The five principal churches in Antigua kick off by each having a procession on the five Sunday afternoons leading to Holy Week.

Numbers have mysteriously appeared on some of the pavements, which are the allotted spots for the 80 or so men required to hoist each float into the air.  Every things builds over the next 5 weeks to a gory re-enactment of the Crucifixion in Front of the Cathedral on Good Friday. 

I will be posting pictures of the various processions over the next few weeks and special Lenten blog in a couple of days!

“Kak Ik”

I am pleased to report that my first venture into the truly traditional Mayan dish of Kak Ik was a success, and will be posting the recipe shortly!

Talking of things Mayan…… all you all prepared for the end of the world on 21 December, 2012?  As Guatemala was/is the epicentre of the Mayan World everybody is expecting a huge influx of tourists this year drawn by all the hype over the calendar.

I have started painting again! (First effort after a year or so!)
“Mayan Art Project”

 The art project continues to gather steam, next  week we start to put the story together as all the masks will have been completed.  Santiago Zamora is in the highly and volcanic region of Guatemala (as is Antigua) and was/is the region of the kaqchiqel (pronounced kah-chi-kal) speaking Maya. 

Despite it being required by law the schools are not teaching the children their own native language and so they children are loosing touch with their incredible heritage.  I am hoping that starting with this project they can start to explore the stories history and rich, rich tapestry of their culture in more detail.  I am starting by reading the “Popol Vuh” which is the Maya holy book.  It is sad to think that traditions are still being lost, just as missionaries are still “encouraging” Mayan-folk to turn away from their heritage and embrace evangelical Christianity, I really hope that in Santiago Zamora I can encourage the children to treasure their heritage a bit more.

The art project is a start!  And the Calendar will be a great excuse for further work on this – as nobody is expecting the end of the world soon.   Which leads neatly back to being moved in sundry places and explosions!

“Back to explosions”

The prospects of Volcan Acatenango erupting could be on the cards in the next 20 years as small explosions have occurred twice in the last 90 years!

Santiago Zamora sits nestled in the foothills of the volcanoes Acatenango and Fuego!
In the crater of Fuego!  (Obviously it is not me!)


A typical cloud of smoke- seen most days!

“The only known historical eruptions of Acatenango volcano occurred in the 20th century, between 1924 and 1927 from just north of the summit peak (Pico Mayor) and again in December 1972 from the saddle between Yepocapa and Pico Mayor. These phreatic explosions generated ballistic volcanic bombs that fell near the summit craters and fine volcanic ash that fell up to 25 km away.”


The three volcanos visible from Antigua
Volcán de Fuego ("Volcano of Fire") is an active stratovolcano in Guatemala. It is close to the city of Antigua Guatemala. It has erupted frequently since the Spanish conquest. "Fuego" is famous for being almost constantly active at a low level. Smoke issues from its top daily, but larger eruptions are rare. On August 9, 2007 Fuego erupted spewing lava, rock and ash. Guatemala's volcanology service reported that seven families were evacuated from their homes near the volcano.[1] The volcano is joined with Acatenango and collectively the complex is known as La Horqueta.

This is my foto of Fuego on a typical day!   A puff of smoke every 20 minutes or so!  Some days more, some less!
A major eruption of either of these volcanoes would be truly devastating!



I have decided to devote my next blog (out in a couple of days) to all things Lenten – it is so seriously observed here that it deserves special investigation!

Finally back to Good ‘ol mediaeval Christianity

Jossefet and I decided to go for wander round the town Friday evening to see what was happening and my word it was jumping!  Everybody was out the street outside the Cathedral was full of food stalls and their was a carnival atmosphere! It would appear that everybody was out to visit  the cathedral and see its “sound and light” presentation for Lent – the four horsemen of the Apocalypse – with sound effects booming voices and certainly designed to give everybody(but especially the kids) a good foretaste of what eternal damnation awaits if they fail to keep a good Lent, fail to go to confession, fail to keep the rules of the Catholic Church and probably refuse to eat their greens! A great demonstration of the “Love of God” and Yes ~I am being ironic here!

More pics in my next blog "LENT ANTIGUA STYLE"

But the “atol de elote” and the “platinos in mole” from the food stalls were great ~ am hoping this is a weekly Friday night event!





Caminando
Sunday 26 Joseefet and I went for along walk as we were thinking of changing abode for somewhere cheaper and larger ~so we took a bus to Ciudad Vieja  (3miles from Antigua) and then strolled back through several small pueblas looking at churches and life on the way!   This weeks gallery is from that walk.
The Cathedral in Ciudad Vieja founded 1543


Untitled sculpture - very interesting metaphor!

Garden of the Cathdral


San Miguel Escobar

San Pedro de las Huertas



Hope you enjoyed this weeks whitterings!

Hasta pronto amigos!

Monday 13 February 2012

Bowdler ~ Atol ~ Why!!!!! ~ and a Saint!

Don't forget "if you are reading this as an email" to view this posting from within my blog then you can view the Video and read the extra news!   Also in the blog site you also get to see the pictures in a bigger format simply by clicking on them!
(For email readers) - To go to the blog site click here www.knowmadicmike.blogspot.com

I am nursing a cold.  February weather is locally known as “loco” (mad) every day is different, hot, cold (8 degrees C), rainy, cloudy ….. there is no pattern until things settle down to a hot March and April.  On Friday I got caught out by only the second bought of rain since I arrived here and then yesterday it was hot and then cold and today it is cloudy and damp!  So I am sipping the Guatemalan equivalent to “Lem-Sip” and aching.

“Bowdlerisation” is alive and well and living in Santiago Zamora!


Its been an interesting week, with three afternoons spent in Santiago Zamora, I felt a bit like the “Pied Piper of Hamelin” as I walked through the pueblo on Wednesday children appeared from everywhere to greet me, take my bags and we made a kind of procession as we marched to the Junior School for our art sessions.   As I think I have mentioned before we are having to use the local school as we have no water at El Plan Infinito ~ I think the end is in sight and we will have water ere long!  It is pretty shameful that a few self-interested people can deny 40 children the basic right of water …..  But the local Mayor is now on the case!

Anyways, on Tuesday we had 18 children, 21 on Wednesday and 24 on Thursday, this is particularly gratifying as the new children are also new to “El Plan Infinito” and had heard about the fun the others were having and wanted a slice of the action!


We are all working on a project to celebrate the 10th Anniversary of the Niños Foundation (who fund some of El Plan Infinito's activities along with CasaSito) – the children are making mascaras (masks) and are going to tell the Mayan story of the Hero Twins “Hanahpú and Ixbalanqué” – basically these two heros fight with the underworld God’s, after disturbing them by boisterous football playing, bring Maize to the people, ask the animals to behave and eventually get transformed into the Moon and the Sun.  A great theme for mask making, we have owls, tigers, rabbits, bats, jaguars, the Hero’s, and a whole array of subterranean Gods.  However, I feel a bit like the awful “Mr. Thomas Bowdler”  (cast your mind back to bastardised versions of the classics) as having read the story in more detail have decided that it is simply too violent for the youngsters, so we are stickling to the general idea and leaving out the decapitations and the mysterious insemination of the Twin’s mother by a skull hanging from a tree and vomiting into her hand!  All very metaphorical no doubt but probably not for 5 – 10 year olds!

To add to the merriment,  I had the bright idea of including sound effects and so this week we will go scavaging for “basura” which we will turn into drums, shakers, trumpets and other instruments in order to develop the children’s creativity further.
They can’t get over the fact that rule one for the activity is that there should be no silence when working and we should all have a jolly time, and that Jossefet and I should be referred to by our names and not as Prof! They need so much care and attention and we are trying to let them have responsibility over their behaviour. Although when Jossefet gets going on the closing activity the noise and energy levels go through the roof!  All good fun!

The rather depressing Santiago Zamora!


To get to Santiago Zamora you need to take a bus to San Antonio Aguas Calientes – the home of the finest weaving in Guatemala (more on this later) nad then take a microbus (minibus) to Santiago!  One good thing is that in San Antonio the local small comedor (restaurant) does a fantastic lunch of main dish, salad, tortillas and cold drink for a stunning Q13.   £1.15!   For what you get, even by Guatemalan standards this is cheap!  And the women who run it are delightful and enjoy a laugh and a joke which all adds to the fun!

“Du yu spekIn glish?”

I have decided that I cannot continue with my English teaching beyond this week, my Korean student lovely and keen as he is, has tested my patience beyond measure. As every grammatical rule, or spelling correction is met with the question “Why?”   How do you answer the question that the plural of book is books when confronted by the question “Why?”.   It is also very difficult to explain anything when you do not have a common language in which to do it!  So I am bombarded with “very difficult”, “No understand” and “Why?” I am sure he will do better with somebody with more experience. And my reason is also that I need more time to prepare for taking over the coordination of the project in Santiago Zamora from Easter.  And it is actually hard for me to just speak English now as my sentences are now peppered with Spanish words and phrases. All very confusing for poor Kim!

Bebidas  (Drinks)

I have not had an alcoholic drink for about 3 weeks! But continue to explore the amazing range of “Chapin” drinks and beverages.  This week it has been “atols” ~
Atol de Elote, Atol blanco, Atol de haba to name but three!


Atol de haba is made from roasted and ground fava beans mixed with cinnamon (canela) and then a paste is made with water and this is added to boiling water and cooked for about 10 minutes, then milk is added and the whole cooked a further 5 – 10 minutes. The resulting drink is thick, warming and very comforting! A bit like a thickish “Horlicks!”

Normally drinks like this are drunk directly from a bowl and in order to stop any sediment forming you have to deftly keep the liquid circulating in your bowl in a clockwise motion. 








San Valentin
It takes 7 or 8 people to play the Marimba!


San Valentin is big here!  The day was anticipated by a tea dance in the “central park” with the music supplied by not one marimba band but four all playing together, sadly the number  of dancers was small, I had imagined all the older population of Antigua samba-ing around the park like a giant come dancing spectacular…. The reality was different, but I just love the sound of the Marimba.


Oh yes on Friday, Jossefet and I had had what is becoming our regular weekly BBQ, this week it was fillet steak at a wallet wrenching £2 per pound!  Had it been simply rump or sirloin it would have only been £1.65 per pound! Seems crazy to be BBQing fillet steak but boy-oh-boy did it taste good!  In order to get the charcoal (carbon) going the wood of a particular pine-type tree is used as the sap bursts into flames and sets the whole thing off in spectacular fashion!

OK that’s it, time for another Lem-sip!
 
 This weeks gallery ~ the Charming Park Central of San Antonio, Aguas Calientes and .....

 







and dancing in the park!   (maybe the men were shy?)







Hasta Luego Amigos!